Spring 2012 Digital Edition

The Spanish first claimed the island in 1499, but lost interest in it later when the earth did not reveal a bounty of gold, silver, or gems. In 1634, the Dutch adopted it into part of its storied East India Trading Company empire. There were also pirates trafficking coffee and cocoa to Holland in shrewd, illegal ways that made more money for Amsterdam than the legal trade of those commodities into Madrid. Later, salt turned out to be Curaçao’s gold. Further down the line, nearby Venezuela installed outposts of its own industrial complex on the island.

Even with this evolution, much work in the last decade was put into transforming Curaçao from interesting cruise ship port-of-call to bonafide destination. Kura Hulanda Hotel (kurahulanda.com), curated by global entrepreneur Jacob Gelt Dekker (the Netherlands’ answer to Richard Branson) is emblematic of this. The transformed mansion located on the Otrabanda side of Willemstad looks almost like a set from a 1950s Technicolor musical. However, wander through the property, and you will discover it is firmly rooted in reality thanks to Dekker’s conscientious efforts to balance luxury with a living tribute to the African cultures that fed into it over the years. The candy-colored structures form a maze yielding wonderful surprises at every turn: impeccably cultivated courtyards, a waterfall, gorgeously situated sculptures, and tucked-away art galleries with meticulously arranged historic artifacts and paintings. Dekker’s visionary village is also home to the outstanding Astrolabe and Jaipur Restaurants.

The Kura Hulanda Museum, anchoring the complex, is an enormously moving look at the Caribbean slave trade. It reminds visitors that this multi-cultural, now booming paradise had a dark side that should never be forgotten. Around town, there are also lovingly preserved reminders of European Jews’ role in Curaçao’s growth as a business hub, as Jewish traders and families represented 58% of the population between 1750 and 1820. The 280 year-old Mikve Israel-Emanuel Jewish Synagogue (snoa.com) still thrives as an active place of worship and houses a museum with religious artifacts that date back to the middle ages—objects that may have possibly been lost to history from World War II or other political conflicts.
The treasures of the deep and rare wildlife gems are also available to all in abundance. Christoffel Park (christoffelpark.org) overflows with hiking trails, local flora, and wildlife. More adventurous types will want to scope out rustic spots such as the “Blue Room” sea cave and Santa Cruz beach as well as numerous scuba-diving concessions that circle the island like a pearl choker.
People who don’t swim but want to embrace their inner Jacques Cousteau should not miss Substation Curaçao (substation-Curaçao.com), whose “Curasub” takes guests nearly 1,000 feet below sea level—much farther than even divers can travel safely. The Curasub, built by Nuytco Research of Canada with safety systems certified by Lloyd’s of London, is a technological wonder to behold. Not surprisingly, the Curasub experience does not come cheap at $650 U.S., but it delivers beyond the novelty of traveling on a real sub down to the depths.
Speaking of the sea, there is an abundance of imaginatively prepared seafood served in unexpected environments. Though there are dockside grills similar to those found in every tropical port from Oahu to Bali, local Curaçao businesses have gotten creative with restaurants that not only transform local ingredients, but neighborhoods as well. Mundo Bizarro (think Rio de Janeiro’s Lapa District or Buenos Aires’s Palermo Soho) is the culinary and cultural hub of Pietermaai Smal, in the midst of a “Latin Quarter” style renaissance. The area is also home to uber-trendy bar/lounge Moon. In the rustic northwest of the island, Jaanchie’s and its owner (the sort of person everybody wants as an uncle) delights with its playful Amsterdam café-meets-Caribbean hideaway décor and hearty stews. Often, a complimentary serving of iguana will be thrown in.
Marsche Bieuw (Old Market) offers for very little money some of the most stellar food in the Caribbean, as well as prime people watching. Locals on their lunch break mix with families on holiday and visiting executives decked out in Ralph Lauren. Foodies who delight in recreating their vacations in their home kitchens, meanwhile, should book a group session at Angelica’s Kitchen. It is famous for its goof-proof recipes and the instructors’ spot-on direction, not only ensuring dinner will be flawless, but you will become really good friends with whomever you are partnered.
What makes Curaçao unique as a vacation spot also makes it ideal for corporate conferences. Curaçao Marriott Beach Resort and Emerald Casino (marriott.com) fits the bill and is also family friendly—a plus for conferences that allow people to bring the family. Across the way, you will find the Philippe Starck-esque Floris Suite Hotel (florissuitehotel.com), with a mod restaurant and a lounge bar that makes good use of Blue Curaçao liqueur and its multi-colored siblings.
In Curaçao’s southeast, the newly-opened Hyatt Regency Resort Curaçao Golf Resort  (curaçao.hyatt.com) wows business groups with expansive, scenic meeting areas as well as unusual terrain for hiking, biking, tennis, a marina, and nature-meets-minimalist rooms. Clement Hugeot’s cocktail creations are among the best on the island, while Shor does both fancy seafood and a luxe burger-and-shake diner/bar menu. Its inspired Atabei Spa is distinguished with its individualized suites outfitted with multi-jet shower, treatment area, and dressing area.

For more information on travel to Curaçao, visit Curaçao.com or ctb.an.

Swing Time

Curaçao’s island culture is one of the most multi-dimensional and interesting in the Caribbean.  This extends to the golf courses covering the island.   The Hyatt Regency’s par 72 Old Quarry Curaçao Golf Course, designed by Pete Dye, gets its name from the nearby historic quarries where Curaçao marble is mined. At around 7,000 yards, it proves good things come in compact packages for the intermediate, beginner, or advanced golfer.
With tropical terrain famed by clear Caribbean waters, The Blue Bay Golf & Beach Resort (Phone: +011 599 9 868-1755; bluebaygolf.com) has a personality bound to delight and surprise players of any level. Thanks to the inspired design by William ‘Rocky’ Rocquemore, Curaçao’s natural attributes are used to full advantage. Height differences, rocks, sand, and sea are all part of the experience. A prime example is hole five, which requires a long shot across the sea. The welcoming course is ‘Pay & Play.’ No membership or golf license is required
Buffed to a fresh sheen in 2003, the Curaçao Golf & Squash Club (+011-599-9-737-3590;  Curaçaogolf.com) is not only rich in atmosphere but also history. In 1931, the Curaçao Golf & Squash Club was born under the name Shell Golf Club (which stuck until Shell Oil left Curaçao in 1985). In the beginning, the club was officially accessible only to employees of Shell, though non-Shell employees interested in golf were admitted to the course unofficially. Early on, “brownies” (sand mixed with oil and white spirit) substituted for greens.  In 1976, the first squash courts were opened on the property of the golf club, reflecting the can-do character of the club’s loyal following.