FINE DINING
Another Great Adventurer in Fine Dining
CATHERINE AN, the youngest member of the An/Crustacean culinary family dynasty, brings both fresh herbs and a fresh outlook to a Hollywood institution
{SANTA MONICA, CA}
By Elyse Glickman
When Catherine An is asked about her personal success in the grand scheme of the things—the high-profile culinary family behind the Crustacean brand of restaurants and catering to be exact—she considers the question and her answer carefully.
"Mama is my secret weapon and my ultimate inspiration," she affirms. "While some L.A. chefs try a little too hard to be different, my mother's food has always been very simple but balanced. If the food is delicious, the customer is ultimately going to come back."
"Mama" is Helene An, a former Vietnamese royal who in 1975 arrived in America only with her three oldest daughters in tow and her flair for cooking and entertaining intact. Though the family opened its first groundbreaking restaurant in San Francisco, noted food critic Michael Bauer ordained her, "the mother of Fusion cuisine in the U.S." This set the stage for Helene and four of her five daughters to reign over Los Angeles' food and social scene.
Catherine also acknowledges the unique contributions her older sisters made to the still-growing House of An, as well as the valuable lessons they taught her before she made her debut in the industry. "Hannah taught me the importance of being genuine with your customers and with the people that work for you," she continues. "Elizabeth is brilliant and has such a strong work ethic. After my mother, she is probably the hardest-working woman I know. She taught me that perseverance, along with wits, is what makes women restaurateurs survive. Monique taught me the importance of being frank and direct. This is a very important trait when you own your company and when managing employees."
Even with the indelible marks the older sisters made as chefs and restaurateurs, the youngest member of this industrious clan is now having her turn carrying the House of An into the future. It involves overseeing Tiato (her restaurant/market concept in Santa Monica's entertainment business corridor) as well as spearheading the expansion of An Catering beyond the delectable spring rolls and crab puffs that have been a mainstay at many charity events and post-awards soirees.
Catherine prefers to show instead of tell. To get her points across about her contributions to the Crustacean/House of An legacy, she has several of Tiato's signature dishes brought into the private dining room to serve as visual and sensory aids.
"Here is the Villager's Favorite, derived from a dish Mama made for me," she says, scooping a heaping portion on to a separate plate. "Tiato, named for one of the flavorful high anti-oxidant herbs my mother frequently cooked with, is built on a foundation of food that's fresh, natural and incorporates herbs grown right here. Beyond our herb garden, however, what was important to me when designing this space was making it peaceful Zen oasis for the employees from local businesses who come here almost everyday to eat, hang out and relax."
Beyond neighboring corporate clients like Lionsgate and Summit, Catherine beams when she discusses one recent event starring a menu themed around MoneyBall, attended by the real Billy Beane (played by Brad Pitt on screen). She also acknowledges Crustacean Beverly Hills' enduring popularity has dovetailed into Tiato's rising star status as well as the catering business, which is enjoying a renaissance on her watch.
"While I would never kiss and tell, we have a strong celebrity clientele including those who cannot resist Chef Helene's signature garlic noodles," she chimes. "A few of our regulars who probably wouldn't mind us mentioning their names are George Clooney, Warren Beatty, Annette Bening, and Lady Gaga. While our family has been doing glamorous Hollywood events ever since people heard Crustacean started a catering department, Tiato was a choice site for a handful of after-parties, including fetes for The SAG Awards and The Grammy Awards."
