Tiny Bubbles, Big Taste

Sparkling Wines from Around The World Make the Holidays Sizzle!

By Diane Sukiennik and Michael Reiss

Tradition dictates that special occasions be celebrated with a sparkling toast. Although champagne has been considered the gold standard, it is well documented that sparkling wines have been served at even the most formal occasions.  Most notably, the White House serves American sparkling wine with great pride, made in the methode champenoise. Even the Chinese proffer their own national bubbles these days.  If it’s good enough for heads of state, why not explore the ever-expanding world of sparkling wine in your own home?  So let’s pop the corks and begin with a brief history.
A monk cellar master named Dom Pérignon at the Abbey of Hautvillers near the city of Reims, the “capital” of the Champagne region (a three-hour drive east of Paris), developed Champagne in France about 1700 AD. The monk was making wine, when for unknown reasons, the fermentation process was incomplete before he bottled and corked the wine. The wine remained undisturbed in the cold cellar all winter. When spring arrived the wine in the bottles began to warm. The incomplete fermentation process continued, producing carbon dioxide that was trapped in the bottle. Eventually the monk realized that bottles of wine in the cellar were exploding, so he quickly opened one that was still sealed and sipped, exclaiming, “I’m drinking stars!” Voila, Champagne was created and named after the region where it was discovered. In the rest of France and most other countries, most Champagne-like wines are called “sparkling wines” in an agreement crafted by the French who want to retain their exclusive right to the label of “Champagne”.

The making of champagne is an intensive, long, costly and painstaking process including the selection of grape varieties and vintages (usually some combination of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier), primary and secondary fermentation which can last for years (each year adding to the price), careful riddling or turning of the bottles and adjusting the sugar content to the desired sweetness level ranging from very dry (ultra brut) to very sweet (doux), with brut being the most popular.

When this process is duplicated outside of the designated Champagne region, the resulting sparkling wine is labeled “fermented in this bottle”, or “Méthode Champenoise.”  A visit to one of the many sparkling wine producers in Napa such as Domaine Chandon or Schramsberg will turn any budding oenophile into an enthusiastic expert.

Throughout the years, shortcuts to this procedure have been developed such as the Charmat bulk process, in which a large stainless steel tank is used in place of individual bottles for the fermentation process. This usually leads to larger bubbles and an inferior taste profile, thus explaining the dramatic price difference.

These days, every wine-producing region tries their hand at producing a sparkling wine. Some of the most successful and most popular include Spanish Cava, Italian Prosecco, German Sekt, Portuguese Vinho Verde, South African Cap Classique, Chilean, Argentinian, Australian and American sparkling wine.

Lily Bollinger, doyenne of one of the most highly regarded champagne houses, was asked in an often referenced interview, “When do you drink champagne?” Her reply?

“I only drink champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it - unless I’m thirsty.”

With such choice, the only question that remains is, why wait for a special occasion, when you can experience the magic of “drinking stars” to celebrate everyday! Salut!

Below are the best value in sparkling wines. See our complete list of recommended sparkling wines and champagnes of very high quality and reasonable price, each from different regions in United States, France, Italy and Spain online here.

Schramsberg Brut Blanc de Blancs 2004 - $27.99

Napa Valley, United States

This is a superb sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay grapes in the classic Brut style. Small lots of malolactic and barrel-fermented wines are added to the wine for complexity. The wine is then aged on the yeast lees in bottle for three years prior to disgorgement. On the palate this sparkling wine has alluring aromas of green apple, citrus and tropical fruits. It has a clean, balanced finish. Served frequently at the White House, Schramsberg also was introduced by Nixon to the Chinese in the early 70’s.

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley NV - $21.99

Sonoma, United States

The same prestigious Champagne House that makes the elite Roederer Crystal at $250/bottle produces this sparkling wine.
This wine is crisp and elegant with complex pear, spice and hazelnut flavors. It is fresh and lightly fruity with great finesse and depth of flavor.

See the rest of our recommendations here. Thanks to Paul Smith, Owner of Woodland Hills Wine Company, for his assistance in this article. The wines listed in this article are currently available at Woodland Hills Wine Company (1-800-678-9463) and other fine wine stores.