Ojai Rising
Ojai blossoms from its humble agricultural town roots into a heavenly microcosm of Southern California sensory bounty.
By Elyse Glickman
The Historic Ojai Valley Inn
For many years, it was safe to say Ojai existed in the shadows cast by its tony beachfront neighbors Santa Barbara and Ventura. Thanks to its sunny location away from the beaches, however, Ojai steadily developed a following of loyal fans thanks to its quaint shops, diners, horseback riding, independent wineries and celebrity hideaways (Johnny Cash owned property in nearby Casitas Springs). It also gained fame back in the 1930s, playing a role as the backdrop for Shangri-La in the classic 1939 movie, The Lost Horizon.
With the arrival of the 21st century, and a collective desire for destinations that embody life’s simple pleasures, however, Ojai figured out what it wanted to be when it grew up—itself, only better and more inviting. Ojai was always a haven for artists and the environmentally conscious. Today, this zeitgeist and the local agricultural bounty is now on prominent display thanks to a new generation of cafes, bars, boutiques, spas, inns and hotels. Though many of these attractions have a little bit of uptown sophistication, alongside several Aquarian age shops and classes with their own following, there appears to be a shared understanding that progress should never be at the expense of local tradition or history.
Historic Luxury
The Ojai Valley Inn (www.ojairesort.com) is the bedrock of Ojai’s identity as a “destination” weekend escape. However, there is more than what meets the eye with this expansive, 300+ room Mediterranean-tinged property. Thanks to a $90 million renovation in 2005, the Inn epitomizes modern resort glamour, with its spa, golf, tennis, fine dining and wedding settings. In 1923, it was brought to life by famed glass manufacturer Edward D. Libbey to serve as his personal private country club and golf course. During the 1940s, meanwhile, it stood proud as a contributor to America’s World War II efforts. In 1942, the building housed Camp Oak, a military training center for a battalion of 1,000 Army troops, and in 1944 was turned the base over to the U.S. Navy for a rest and recuperation facility. In the glory days after the War, The Ojai Valley Inn provided a lovely from Hollywood, for such notables as Clark Gable, Irene Dunne, Lana Turner, Loretta Young, Hoagy Carmichael, Walt Disney, Nancy and Ronald Reagan, Judy Garland and Paul Newman
Blue Iguana Pool
A Different Take on “Lizard” Lounging
For some travelers looking to get back to nature, meanwhile, smaller can be better. This is the reason why that lovingly handcrafted dwellings like the Blue Iguana Inn (blueiguanainn.com) and the Emerald Iguana Inn (emeraldiguana.com) can and be lodgings of choice for a visit with a sense of homegrown authenticity. Though the revitalization of properties like the sprawling Ojai Valley Inn prompted Angelinos to rediscover Ojai , the sister properties successfully balance comfort, amenities and Ojai’s embrace of a simpler life.
The Blue Iguana, an easy ten minute-drive from central Ojai, is suited either for couples and families with many of the rooms designed for extended stays. The décor is subtly Southwestern, with giant mosaic blue iguanas guarding the property and pool. The Emerald Iguana, designed as a romantic, adults-only retreat, has an “enchanted forest” feel to it, albeit with a slightly tropical twist in its lush landscaping. Interior decor here blends Southwestern and middle-eastern aesthetics without being over the top, keeping true to Ojai’s “simpler is better” philosophy. Both properties also have other wonderful home-y touches like continental breakfast treats and fluffy bagels from local bakeries.
Food for Thought
Though the food scene in Ojai is sophisticated and on-trend, moderately priced cafes and fine dining establishments manage to present their food in a very “home-made” context and stringently keep the ingredients of their dishes locally-sourced, simple and eco-friendly. Ojai Ice Cream, for example, looks and smells like the old-fashioned ice cream and sweet shop you may remember from childhood. However, flavors like Chocolate Raspberry Rum Chip, Banana Fudge and Blueberry give it a modern sensibility.
Next door, Casa Barranca Winery’s Craftsman-style tasting room makes wine tasting more social and non-touristy. What was once the town’s former bookstore blends together a sweet wine bar and Casa Barranca wines with gallery space, comfy couches and a prime opportunity to witness locals congregating and appreciating what’s in their back yard. The wines themselves are worthwhile, especially given that the organic, biodynamic grapes used are sourced from several neighboring socially conscious vineyards and are certified Organic. The blends have a very northern Spanish or Northern Italian sensibility to them in terms of the flavor profile.
Feast Bistro (www.feastofojai.com) and Vesta (www.vestaojai.com), offer well-priced, farm-fresh “New American”-cuisine that showcases Ojai product and produce most creatively. Feast Bistro, created by Chef Susan Coulter and Beryl Schwartz in 2005, charms guests with such delights as fresh-squeezed, lemonade, ravioli, omelets and sandwiches using lemons, olives and many other things sourced from local farms. Desserts are a highlight, especially the lemon sandwich cookies and olive oil cake, which is said to sell like, well, hotcakes. Though Vesta began its life as a gift shop and tea room, the owners transformed it into a haven for favorite salads and sandwiches updated with a variety of playful twists (i.e. their cucumber-wasabi dressing) and the option of having many dishes done vegetarian without compromising on flavor. Vesta also offers carb-conscious cocktails for those who want both their spiritually enlightenment and foodie moments.
Azu Chef Laural Moore
What makes fine-dining spot Azu quite compelling is that the fare is pan Mediterranean with the strongest emphasis on Moroccan and Israel. Laurel Moore, the restaurant’s executive chef and anchor, reveals that before launching her culinary career, she worked as a photographer in Israel for six months and was inspired by the foods she enjoyed there. The menu is rich in texture in flavor (her couscous with dried fruit is a meal in itself) and ripe with lots of local fruits and vegetables. Foods of Spain, France, Greek and Italy play nice supporting roles. There is a baked brie drizzled with local honey, and a fabulous baked chile relleno smothered in a perky ancho chile pepper sauce with capers and just enough cheese for texture. While Azu is famous for its wine selection, signature cocktails and desserts are special and worth a longer hike or horseback ride the morning after.
Happy Trails to You
One superb place to do a morning ride, whether you’re experienced or a newbie, is at Western Trail Rides (WesternTrailRides.org). Using the adjoining protected nature preserves and panoramic vistas to her advantage, seasoned equestrian riding teacher Melissa White provides a nice balance of riding technique coaching, local history and folklore and another way to get a glimpse of local life, encountering residents riding, walking their dogs or working out on local trails during the course of her rides.
Off the trails, there’s plenty more culture and history to be found, including Libbey Park (where you may catch a drum circle or a hula hoop workout group), the Ojai Valley Museum and Rains Department Store (at 96 years old, one of America’s last surviving independent department stores), loaded with its eclectic mix of house wares, clothing and bric-a-brac.
