Simon|LA
A Rock Star Chef Rolls On and Shares the Stage
By Elyse Glickman
Simon|LA @ Sofitel LA
8555 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90048
310/358.3979
CSQ Contact: Klaus Doelling
Hours
Weekday Breakfast
6:30AM-11:30AM
Weekend Brunch 11PM-2:30PM
Lunch 11:30PM-2:30PM
Light Fare 2:30PM-6PM
Dinner 6PM-11PM
Four years ago, the euro-chic West Hollywood outpost of the Sofitel steered boldly into the 21st century under the influence of A-list chef Kerry Simon, who not only boasts a nationwide track record of successful concept restaurants, but a super-group client roster of rock and Hollywood royalty (David Bowie, INXS, Debbie Harry, Diane Keaton, and Matt Dillion) that would be the envy of any self-respecting event planner or concert promoter.
In its first years, Simon|LA and companion bar Stone Rose offered diners-in-the-know a taste of rock star treatment, thanks to “wild” food and drink menus as eclectic yet all-American as rock music itself—comfort food classics that pushed the envelope with Asian influences and a changing lineup of farm-to-table fixings that delivered an element of surprise.
Food headliners included (and still include) such anthem-ic fare as “The Meatloaf,” wine-soaked short ribs, brick roasted chicken, and in-your face truffled mac-and-cheese and cauliflower au gratin. For the encore, Kerry whipped up a “Junk Food Platter” loaded with deluxe versions of childhood favorites including cotton candy, Snowballs, Hostess cupcakes, and Cracker Jack. In other words, serious fun.
Though Simon|LA still remains a “greatest hit” in the L.A. dining scene, Kerry Simon has infused new talent into his group. These artists carry on his signatures, while updating the menu regularly with their choice touches. Executive chef Marius Blin and Executive Sous Chef Andrew Vaughan now front the band, leading the way weekly with seasonal finds from the nearby West Hollywood Wednesday farmer’s market. While heirloom tomato salad with burrata cheese is a staple, Blin throws in the surprise of a baby artichoke or some other treasure from that week’s hunt. Vaughan adds rhythm to such dishes as the crab cake, revived with a hint of pepper and balance from a light and fragrant Asian slaw. Newly added dessert chef Brigitte Contreras, meanwhile, holds her own not only with Kerry’s junk food classic but also her lighter approach to carrot cake and perfect ice creams and sorbets.
Like a good rock concert, Simon|LA’s décor sets the stage for a sensory journey. The main restaurant’s backdrop is suggestive of a Southeast Asian tropical forest, with its hits of fresh green and earthy brown appointments. Mid-century Scandinavian style furnishings add an extra layer of sophistication that parallels the menu. Likewise, Stone Rose, with its sensuous reds and pinks, is ideal for the after-party, where one can sip refreshing signature cocktails like the Siren and the Lychee Martini. Through it all, the service is superb and the waitstaff always keep their cool, because they know their stuff.
With Kerry’s input, but still weaving in their own modern influences, the crew at Simon|LA seems well-equipped to maintain the restaurant’s original fan base while pushing the establishment forward with their own style and current food trends.
